Old Glory
forever in peace may it wave...
Once first ascent fever bit with Bear Lake Monster, Shaun and Chris began scoping virgin rock
for new conquests. What they found was Old Glory in Provo Canyon. This giant fold of
limestone across from Nunns Park offers quality rock and beautiful vistas among the
poorer, stratified rotten rock that abounds in the canyon. Color Code:
Yellow: Free at Last 5.8
(straight up) and Coup d'Etat 5.9 (veering left from half way up). This
route was freed on July 4, 2000 by Shaun Roundy and Chris Barksdale. Two pitches. Follow
the obvious crack to the left up and around the bush to the top of the first cliff, then
move outside the arete and up to the top. Lower from slings left around the tree to the
large chockstone near the base with two ropes. Pull them and thread the cliff to lower to
the bottom of the slot. Coup d'Etat moves around the front of the cliff in a rotten, hard
to protect slot and ends with nothing but view. Not recommended.
Red: approach to Free at Last.
Head toward the obvious waterfall, then cut across the cliff band below the falls and
scramble carefully on up.
Purple: All
Play and No Work 5.7 (right) and Doggy Llama 5.8 (left). All
Play and No Work was put up on Labor Day by Shaun Roundy and Sandra Cherrington. Start at
the base of the best-looking crack and run 50 meters up the arete to the tip of the
outcropping above. Set an anchor and enjoy the view. Beware of loose rock! Give your belay
a helmet! Doggy Llama (two variations climbed by Chris and Shaun) ascends either side of
the 90 degree angle cut into rock just up from AP&NW. Too poor of rock to safely
protect, top rope this one. Expect holds to pop.
Green: possible location of Dolly
Mamma (or is it Molly Llama? E me, John, and let me know). Also climbed July 4,
by John Stavros and either Molly or Dolly...?
Swiss climber Elodie Staffler at the top of All Play and No Work |
The approach to top rope Doggy Llama passes through an ephemeral falls |
Chris's wife Kirsten drops over the edge of Doggy Llama |