|
|
Shaun had wanted to
climb this spur ever since summitting Timpanogos via Everest Ridge - the next ridge north. Chris and Shaun started up one night in March and cut a ledge into the ridge at about 8,000' for base camp.
|
|
|
The conversation went something like this: |
Snow conditions were generally good with a thick enough (5") crust to keep us from breaking through. The three feet of depth hoar (sugar snow--very dangerous for avalanches) below the crust concerned us some, but we kept going. After climbing through a few 20' cliff bands, we reached what we assumed would be the summit. After 40' of mixed climbing, we made it over the top to discover that the true summit waited at least three small summits away--all connected by a narrow ridge with cliffs falling away for hundreds of feet to either side. |
Chris was satisfied with the front end of the ridge while Shaun, after coveting this summit for so long, couldn't stop when already so close. He later considered himself lucky for not knowing what he was in for as he might not have gone on.... |
| This picture gives you an idea of what
most of Ginsu's summit ridge looks like. What doesn't show is the 400' drop on both sides.
This easy 12' downclimb presented no problems. |
|
The 20' downclimb at the end of the ridge (to the right) was rotten. Shaun kicked it and sent rock shards flying everywhere. He then backtracked 25' and climbed off to the south (left), then traversed around on narrow, snow-covered ledges (you can see his tracks), pushing rocks away to find solid holds, kicking his crampons as deep as possible for secure footing above the cliffs. |
|
A wide-angle view from below Ginsu fails to show its size and steepness. To the left of
all the rock, a set of mountain lion tracks crossed the shoulder. Timp's summit ridge is a
few hundred yards up and left.
A hundred yards from the car, Shaun realized he had a 40' section of 7mm rope he could have used to traverse the summit ridge more safely. But as long as he lived through it anyway, he was glad to have done it the more exciting way.
> Jared glisades toward Ginsu after a March, 2003 climb up neighboring Everest Ridge, with Little Baldy in the background.